Canyon Spirit: An Epic Train Ride from Denver to Moab and Beyond

If you’re looking to get off the beaten tracks (railroad tracks, that is), Canyon Spirit can take you on a railroad adventure from Denver, Colorado, to Moab, Utah. Formerly known as Rocky Mountaineer, Canyon Spirit is a luxury train with a front-row seat to some of the most jaw-dropping visuals in the West.  

The Canadian company behind Canyon Spirit started servicing the route in 2021. It was its first train in the U.S. after operating in the Canadian Rockies for more than 30 years. The common thread between the Rocky Mountaineer in western Canada and Canyon Spirit in Colorado and Utah is the superlative scenery and easy access to national parks. 

For much of the trip, Canyon Spirit travels alongside the Colorado River and through remote canyons that are only accessible by rail and raft. It’s an entirely different perspective on the landscape than you get from a car on Interstate 70, with the notable bonus of not needing to focus on the road.

All Aboard: Union Station in LoDo

The trip begins at Denver Union Station in Lower Downtown (LoDo). After meandering northwest through the city and its suburbs, the tracks ascend into the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, and the train journeys through the unique “tunnel district,” a 13-mile section of track with 30 tunnels that were hand-blasted through solid rock in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The city skyline quickly fades from view, replaced by rugged mountain wilderness. 

Running below Rollins Pass on the Continental Divide, the pitch-black Moffat Tunnel marks the end of the tunnel district. Open since 1928, the 6.2-mile tunnel is the country’s fourth longest railroad tunnel, and a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. The train exits the tunnel at the base of Winter Park Resort with a blast of daylight. 

Next up, Byers Canyon runs for 8 miles between Hot Sulphur Springs and Kremmling. Cut over the eons by the Colorado River, the sheer gorge is a good place to see moose and elk, and the train offers superlative views of the canyon itself. In Burns Canyon near Dotsero, the scenery shifts its color palette from grays and browns to red as the tracks follow the Upper Colorado River south to I-70.

Next Stop: Glenwood Springs 

A geological masterwork is next: Glenwood Canyon is the largest canyon on the Upper Colorado, its walls towering as high as 1,300 feet above the river. After chugging through the 16-mile canyon, the train stops at the historic railroad depot in Glenwood Springs for the night around 6 p.m. 

There are plenty of diversions here, including the Glenwood Hot Springs Pool and Iron Mountain Hot Springs, and numerous trails that are easy to access. The short hike to Doc Holliday’s Grave is a favorite, and the Glenwood Canyon Recreation Path offers another perspective on the sublime landscape if you have a little time before sunset. 

The downtown dining scene in Glenwood Springs ranges from pub grub to fine dining, and Casey Brewing & Blending under the Grand Avenue Bridge is a fine spot for a pre-dinner drink or a nightcap. 

At the end of the night, guests sleep in rooms at one of the partners of Canyon Spirit, which include a pair of historic hotels near the depot: Hotel Maxwell Anderson and Hotel Colorado. 

Next Stop: Moab 

Passengers rise, shine and get to the train station for a 9 a.m. departure on day two. The Canyon Spirit’s route parallels I-70 through Grand Junction before veering into another area you can only explore via raft or train. 

The route follows the Colorado River for much of the morning as the stark beauty of the high mountain desert comes into perfect focus. A tasting of wines from Colterris Winery in Palisade is offered as the train passes the picture-perfect town and its many vineyards. 

Marking the approach to Grand Junction, stark and imposing Mount Garfield is the high point of the Book Cliffs, rising to 6,765 feet above sea level just northwest of Palisade. Further west, the route enters Ruby Canyon in McInnis Canyons National Recreation Area near Fruita, Colorado. The 25-mile canyon is named for the crimson sandstone that towers over the river here, and the Colorado-Utah state line is marked on the walls for posterity. 

The tracks soon veer south, and the train arrives at a dedicated rail siding near Moab, the vibrant gateway to Arches and Canyonlands national parks, around 3 or 4 p.m., and a motorcoach takes guests into town. Moab’s Main Street is home to numerous shops, outfitters and restaurants. Many passengers spend several days exploring Arches and Canyonlands with a guide or a rental car after their trip on the rails. 

Canyon Spirit’s hotel partners here are Homewood Suites by Hilton Moab, Element Moab, and Hoodoo Moab. Guests can also book half-day driving tours of Arches through another partner, Moab Express.

More Stops and Practical Planning Details

The two-day journey includes two days on the train, all meals and beverages on the train and the overnight stay in Glenwood Springs. There’s also a three-day package with overnight stops in Glenwood Springs and Moab followed by another day on the rails en route to Salt Lake City. Following the Price River, Canyon Spirit traverses the desolate beauty of Price Canyon en route to Utah’s capital city. 

Passengers can choose to travel on the train in either direction, and there are packages that include motorcoach transportation to the three other parks in Utah (Zion, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef) and Las Vegas or Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks in Wyoming. 

The train travels exclusively by daylight, so guests can see the ever-shifting landscape through oversized windows that reach the roof. Onboard hosts narrate the journey with details about the history, peoples and communities that shape the region. There’s also an outdoor viewing area on the train, and the premier upgrade affords access to the exclusive lounge car. 

Onboard meals and snacks are delivered to passengers at their seats throughout the trip. The offerings include numerous products that are made in Colorado, such as baked goods from Gateaux Bakery in Denver, jams from Yummy Lotus in Golden and spirits from Leopold Bros. in Denver and Woody Creek Distillers in Basalt. 

The Denver-to-Moab train runs from April to early November, but you can purchase tickets year-round. Check the Canyon Spirit’s current schedules and prices.